The Due Torri Hotel, where Inspector Morse stayed in Death of the Self

Accommodation during the opera season can be very pricey, particularly in the centre. I spent quite a lot of time researching this, to find reasonably priced accommodation, with en suite, within walking distance of the opera. There were various options further out, but I didn’t fancy trying my luck finding a taxi at 1 a.m. after the entire Arena emptied out. I stayed at Hotel Porta San Zeno which cost me 50 euros/night. This was a good choice overall. I was rather expecting it to be very basic for that price during the opera season. In the event, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the rooms, which were a reasonable size, clean and with a good bathroom. The breakfast was fine, and even though some reviewers on Booking.com had complained of having to pay extra for a second coffee, I had one both mornings and wasn’t charged anything. The hotel is not central- it took me about half an hour to walk back after the opera. But the area is safe- I didn’t feel at all threatened even at that time- and the main thing is that it is walkable. The hotel is also near the San Zena church, where I began my sightseeing tour (though it’s a bit more than the 100 metres they claim on Booking.com- more like a 5 min walk). The only real drawback is that it is on a main road, which didn’t disturb me, as I’m a heavy sleeper, but which might be an issue for some.

Other options- Centre

Hotel Torcolo looked rather nice, but was fully booked when I did my research even a few months before. It looks as though it gets booked solid during the opera season.

For a blowout/honeymoon/ wedding anniversary – the Due Torri is a 5 star, and it’s where Inspector Morse stays in Death of the Self (although in the story he’s in Vicenza). When I checked availability, a single would have been 450 euros per night!